I don’t believe in bucket lists. Goals, sure. But bucket lists that you itemize and work through methodically? Nah. My checklist has changed so dramatically in the past few years. If I had stuck with my 2020 bucket list, I would have missed … everything we've experienced the past few years. I’d rather just let life play out, stay open and jump at the opportunities presented.
That being said. Cappadocia, Turkey is a location that I have dreamed of for years. Did I first discover this dreamland on Instagram? I sure did. I scrolled hundreds of perfect pictures, most overly staged and fabricated to look pretty on the little boxes on my screen. While I usually shy away from the most popular social media locations there was something about this remote region of Turkey that kept nagging at me. I just HAD to see these balloons fly over the fairy chimneys.
This trip was our 4th attempt to travel to Turkey. Covid kept thwarting us (as did international relations which I can’t publicly explain). But everything happens for a reason, right? This final attempt was perfect. From weather, to health, to prices, to my little family just being in a good mood - this was why our other attempts failed, so that we could experience the beauty of Cappadocia at the perfect moment for us.
The cheapest flights dictated that we would have 3 nights and 2.5 days to explore this mystery land and half way through day 1, I was terribly disappointed. We needed to figure out how to get off the tourist track (more on that later) and actually experience the region - it took us a hot second to figure out how to escape the masses but the next day was perfection.
Our final morning was ... eye opening. Each day (weather dependent), up to 160 hot air balloons fly, but our last morning was overcast with rain and the balloons didn’t fly! They didn’t even inflate - just nothing. There were tears from guests at our hotel. Those who had only booked one day (all the blogs suggest you only need one day to see Cappadocia - which is ridiculous), had made this massive trip and were going to miss it. Nothing to be done.
For some reason, the fact that the balloons might NOT fly, NEVER occurred to me. If it had, we might not have made the trip. What a risk. But if you get lucky … you’ll pad up to a scenic overlook wrapped in cozy clothes with a steaming cappuccino. You’ll start to see flames illuminate the valley in quick bursts. There will be so many momentary fiery flashes you won’t know which part of the landscape to focus on. And as the sun begins to peak over the fairy chimneys, you will gasp, as you realize how many, how close, how beautiful and how peaceful these meandering balloons are. The soft sunrise light just drenching the colorful silks as they dot the valley.
And then your 4 year old will break the trance (for everyone) by literally screaming that his "bones have frozen" and you’ll snap back into mom mode.
But for just one second … you experienced magic.
HOTEL
Sultan Cave Suites. I did the research for you - just stay here. This hotel is in Goreme, Cappadocia. There are actually a couple towns in Cappadocia (it’s the region not the town) but Goreme is the best to see the balloons fly. The hotel itself is expansive and mesmerizing. They are known to have the best roof top deck for balloon viewing and actually set up a breakfast photo op if you want a staged pic. *Don't worry about the influencers setting up shop here - The best pictures are actually from the restaurant porch *. You’ll have options of rooms and I suggest splurging for the Fairy Chimney Suites. This room option allows you to actually stay in a fairy chimney. Your walls and ceilings will be 1000s of years old and the hand carved markings are visible. This room was $200 a night (in the off season) with a full breakfast. Breakfast is wonderful. Eggs, pancakes, cappuccinos!!!, Turkish options (get the eggs with pastrami).
Their sister properties have two pools to use in the warm summer months. You can swim in them in November if you're insane like my husband. The hotel is also perfect walking distance to the downtown with lots of other shops, restaurants and trinkets.
The service at the hotel is top notch. Anything you need or last minute reservations can be accommodated. I asked last minute for help and suggestions and they couldn't have been nicer.
I just don’t believe there is a better hotel option in Cappadocia considering location, view, rooms, price. This is it. Just stay here :)
TRANSPORT
We flew Turkish Airlines from Istanbul to Kayseri ($100 round trip per person). There are multiple flights per day and flying time is about 1.5 hours. *Turkish Airlines offers $25 upgrades to business class within two hours of the flight departure - which is entirely worth it just for the priority baggage and honestly delicious inflight meal*. From Kayseri its a little over an hour to Goreme. I didn’t realize this distance, panicked and arranged last minute airport transfer from the hotel which was $70 for private van each way (was very nice and someone enjoyed all the buttons inside). I’m sure there are cheaper options but with an overly tired child, we weren’t waiting at the airport for an hour to catch shared transport.
I didn’t look into renting a car, but after experiencing the area, I totally would have gone this route.
TOURS
What I’ve learned is that there are only a few ways to see Cappadocia. You can do a “red tour” or a “green tour.” These are group tours and cost about $40/person for 6ish hours - there's so many different tour companies but they all do either red or green (government dictates that). You will mainly see tourist photo ops all selling the same souvenirs. You will wait on a hot bus for other couples while they get their 5th cup of coffee and forget bus meeting times. You will show up at the historical sites with 1234938273 other people at the same time. You will see the places you want to go (and were told you would go) in the distance, like Uchisar Castle, but the tour won’t bring you. You will become highly frustrated about the false advertising, throw a temper tantrum, refuse to get back on the bus and walk your butt all the way back to the hotel*.
Next option is to hire a private tour guide, which allows you to dictate the route and the time spent at each location but these tours can be in excess of $350 for the day … come on. Thankfully, a lovely dude at our hotel whispered the secret: just hire a taxi and have the driver wait while you explore what you would like. We chose this option on Day 2 and it was a dream.
If you’re ever in Cappadocia and want to try the taxi route, call Ali (message for his number). His English is good, he's a responsible driver, cleanest cab I've ever been in and he hung with us for 4.5 hours while we saw our sites without the crowds. He even took us on a secret little hike that was … mouth dropping. Just call Ali.
*I won’t name the tour company to avoid because they gave me a full refund which I deeply appreciate.
WHAT TO SEE
If you google Cappadocia, you’ll find the standard list but I don't find it very comprehensive and it's riddled with tourist traps.
Uchisar Castle: a million steps up but sweeping stunning views of the valleys dotted with fairy chimneys. Stunning and a nice little work out. There’s a dude selling dried fruit out in front … his mangos are bonkers good.
Love Valley: there is an authentic fairy chimney that you can climb into (its free but they ask for a donation). The home is 5 stories and entirely NOT handicap accessible. You'll also note that there are quite a few fairy chimneys that are currently inhabited and updated to modern standards. Very fun for kids but hold onto their shirts.
Goreme Open Air Museum: incredibly well done. Takes a little over an hour to explore this ancient Christian settlement but you can see the original paintings of the chapel ceilings and walls. Also an excellent place for a riveting game of hide and seek. It’s also walking distance back to the hotel and the walk itself is beautiful.
Underground Cities: ok, if you don’t care about hot air balloons, go to Cappadocia for the underground cities. I have NEVER in my life experienced places like these. These ancient cities are tens of meters underground and housed up to 20,000 people! Historians still don’t totally understand wtf is going on and who built them. There are hundreds of these cities under the ground in Turkey but Kaymakli and Derinkuyu are the ones fully excavated (I mean kinda fully, they all interconnect so could go forever) and open to the public. A tour will only take you to one of them but if you hire Ali, you can go to both. You MUST go first thing in the morning before the tours arrive. I'm terrified by how claustrophobic these cities would be filled with hundreds of tourists. Also, zero percent handicapped accessible. We were the only ones in either and it was incredible. Nothing is off limits so my crazy guys walked quite far down a dark tunnel with their flashlights before I called them back. I still am struggling to find the words to explain how much these cities triggered my imagination.
Hike Goreme to Uchisar Valley: the hike takes about an hour but is free and just stunning. You wander and meander through the fairy chimneys. It's accessible from the hotel and no tour brings you here ;)
Hot Air Balloons: most of the age limits we found were 8 years old. We weren't able to take a balloon ride but heard they are amazing and well worth it. Just make sure your little is tall enough to see over the side of the basket. Otherwise it will be a chilly and crabby ride!
I'm sure there are other amazing spots but these are what we recommend with a little one!
WHEN TO VISIT
Peak tourist season is in the summer but it’s really warm during that time. We went the first week of November and hotels were in off peak - so way less expensive. I cannot imagine this area in the snow - gorgeous but daunting. The Cappadocia infrastructure is limited at best so envisioning how they might plow the streets … nightmare. Again, we got the end of the fall season and so bright yellow leaves were still on the trees. However, while cheaper, you’re also running the risk of no balloons. They do fly all winter but more sporadically based on the weather. I can’t imagine getting all the way there and having the disappointment of bad weather but more time for the underground cities ;)
As always … I love the questions so please don’t hesitate to ask any!
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